6 best things to do in Gjirokastër, Albania

by Jan

Looking for the best things to do in Gjirokastër?  Known as the “Stone City,” Gjirokastër is of the most unique and historic destinations in Albania.  This UNESCO World Heritage Site is famous for its distinctive grey slate houses, stone-roofed buildings and steep cobbled streets that climb the slopes of the Gjerë Mountains.

After spending a couple of days in Berat, Gjirokastër was the second stop on our two-week Albania road trip.  The drive between the two cities took about two and half hours and the scenery was breathtaking, taking us through mountains and rural landscapes, albeit a little hair-raising at times!

Although there is a modern section of Gjirokastër at the foot of the mountain, most visitors come for the historic Old Town, home to the bustling Bazaar, castle, and some of the best-preserved Ottoman houses.

In this guide, I’ve included the 6 best things to do in Gjirokastër, along with practical tips to help you plan your own visit.

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Best things to do in Gjirokastër

Wander through Gjirokastër’s Old Town

One of the best things to do in Gjirokastër is simply wander the historic streets of the Old Town.

Built on the steep slopes of the Gjerë mountains, the historic centre is surprisingly compact, with cobbled streets leading out from one five-way junction.  This makes it extremely easy to explore.

These pedestrianised streets are lined with cafés, restaurants, and small shops,  and provide the perfect place to sit and watch the world go by.

Historic streets with restaurant tables and chairs in centre, 2 men greeting and flower pots
Old Bazaar in Gjirokaster, Albania

Browse the Old Bazaar

Colourful bowls in Gjirokaster Bazaar
Gjirokaster Bazaar

The colourful Old Bazaar of Gjirokastër sits at the heart of the Old Town and is one of the city’s most popular attractions.

Today, handicraft and souvenir shops spill out onto the cobbled streets, creating a lively atmosphere.  It is undeniably touristy, but still an enjoyable place to wander and browse.

The original bazaar was an important trading centre for the region.  Much of what visitors see today has been reconstructed after a fire destroyed parts of the historic market, but it remains one of the best things to do in Gjirokastër.

Climb up to Gjirokastër Castle

Ramparts at Gjirokaster Castle and mountains in the distance
Ramparts at Gjirokaster Castle

No list of the best things to do in Gjirokastër would be complete without a mention of Gjirokastër Castle.

Dominating the skyline above the city, this enormous fortress is one of the largest castles in the Balkans and offers spectacular views across the Drino Valley.

It’s a short, steep climb from the Old Town to the entrance, where you’ll find the ticket office.  Booking online in advance is slightly cheaper.

Canons inside a tunnel at Gjirokaster Castle
Gjirokaster Castle, Albania

Once inside, you can explore on your own.  Highlights at the castle include the vaults, the clock tower, extensive fortifications and displays of military artillery.

There are also two museums within the castle complex, but admission to these is extra, so we didn’t go in.

Go underground in the Cold War Tunnel

Hidden beneath Gjirokastër Castle, the Cold War Tunnel offers a fascinating insight into Albania’s communist past.

Built as an emergency shelter in the latter part of the Communist Era, the underground bunker was designed to protect officials in the event of an attack.  Today visitors can explore parts of the tunnel on a guided tour.

Tours last around 20 minutes and are inexpensive, making it an easy addition to your castle visit.

Visit a traditional Ottoman House

Several of the historic merchant houses in Gjirokastër are open to visitors, but the most famous is Skenduli House, a well-preserved residence dating back over 300 years.

The tours are usually led by descendants of the original family, who will share enthusiastic stories of the house’s history.

Take a day trip to Permët and the Vjosa River

If you’re spending more than one day in Gjirokastër, I’d highly recommend taking one of the popular day trips to Permët and the Vjosa River.

Located about an hour’s drive away, Permët is a small town known for its beautiful mountain setting and slow food.  We enjoyed lunch before heading to the white-water rafting centre.

The City Stone rising from the Vjosa River Valley in Permet, Albania
The City Stone, Permet

The Vjosa River is one of Albania’s most important natural attractions.  The water’s  beautifully clear and the surrounding scenery is stunning.

We loved the white-water rafting trip, though in August the water levels are fairly low, so the rapids are not particularly wild.  Not that this stopped me falling in the river!

Useful information for your visit to Gjirokastër

Getting to Gjirokastër

By car

We drove directly to Berat from the capital, Tirana.  We picked the rental car up in the morning and drove there on the A3 in about two hours.  You can compare the best prices for rental cars with Discover Cars.

By bus

Frequent buses leave from the South and North Albania Bus Terminal in Tirana.  They leave every 30 minutes and take about 2 – 2.5 hours.  These go to the Berat Bus Terminal, from where you can take a bus to the city centre.

A day trip

If you’re short of time, you could do a day trip to Berat from Durrës or Tirana.  This is a full day’s trip by minibus, which includes a stop at Belshi Lake and visits to Mangalem and Berat Castle.

Views of Gjirokaster Castle and valley and mountains in the background
Gjirokaster Castle, Albania

How long do you need in Gjirokastër?

Most visitors can see the main attractions in Gjirokastër in a day.  The Old Town, Bazaar, castle, and Ottoman houses are all within walking distance of one another.

However, I’d recommend spending two nights in Gjirokastër.  We found this gave us plenty of time to explore and still enjoy a day trip to Permët and the Vjosa River.

Where to stay in Gjirokastër

Most visitors choose to stay in or near the Old Town, which puts all the main attractions, restaurants, and cafés within walking distance.

We booked Guri Guesthouse, a traditional guesthouse overlooking the mountains.  It was a short walk to the city centre.  The rooms were basic, the hosts were really kind, and the breakfasts were amazing and plentiful.  A friendly local tortoise even joined us.  We booked it for the private parking, but it is up a very steep drive, so be warned!

Upon reflection, I would have booked the Rose Garden Hotel, which looked amazing.

How do you pay in Gjirokastër?

Although a few places accept card payments in Gjirokastër, you should also carry cash.  Our hotel and several of the restaurants wanted payment in Albanian Lek (ALL).

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