When planning our itinerary, we had a few key places we knew we wanted to visit.  Additionally, we wanted to include some adventurous water activities for the teens and some downtime at the end.  Allowing a few days in each destination meant we weren’t constantly packing up and driving.

The route naturally started in Tirana, with a mix of mountains and coastal towns along the way.  Ksamil was high on our list after reading so much about it, but we also added the quieter coastline near Vlorë.  Ultimately, this balance of adventure and relaxation shaped our 2-week itinerary in Albania.

Let’s start off with an overview of our 2-week Albania itinerary, so you know what to expect.  Overall, this route gives you the perfect mix of culture, history, beaches, and mountain scenery.  It’s an easy route to follow, with manageable driving distances between each stop.

Here’s a detailed day-by-day breakdown of our itinerary with a map:

We went in August, which is not ideal as it was extremely hot and busy.

Speaking to locals, the best time to visit Albania is during the shoulder seasons May to June and September.  This will provide ideal temperatures for beach and mountains and fewer crowds. However, if you go before May, it will be quieter but the sea will still be very cold.

Overall, the shoulder seasons also means better availability and lower prices compared to the peak season.

If you’re flying into Albania, you’ll land at Tirana International Airport (TIA), also known as Rinas Airport.  It is the country’s only international airport and sits 11km northwest of the city.

We flew from London Heathrow with British Airways, though you can often find cheaper flights from other UK airports.

Once you arrive, the first thing you’ll need is cash and a local SIM card.  We purchased a 15-day e-SIM from Airalo, which gave us just the right amount of data for the trip.

A taxi from the airport to the city centre costs a fixed price of 25 Euros.  Alternatively, you can take the bus, which is cheaper, but slower.  Either way, you will need to withdraw some money from the airport ATM.

As we were doing a road trip in Albania and moving to various locations, we hired a car.  It’s easy to compare prices of rental cars in Albania on Discover Cars.  For us, the best fit was with Capital Cars.

Tirana is busy, chaotic, and not the easiest place to drive or park, so we waited until the day we left the city to collect our rental.  It saved money and a lot of hassle.

Driving is the easiest way to get around, plus the scenery is stunning.  I had expected driving in Albania to be awful, but it was mostly very enjoyable.  Some of the main roads are very new and mostly good, but conditions can change in the rural areas.  There are a few hair-raising switchbacks and some drivers who love to overtake at great speed.  Also, don’t be surprised to see goats or cows wandering along the road.

Getting everywhere is quite slow, especially on the coastal roads but this is partly due to drivers double parking and causing traffic jams.

Generally, Google Maps works well but it didn’t always recognise new roads and occasionally sent us down rough rural roads.

It’s important to note that cash is king in Albania.  The currency is the Albanian Lek (ALL)  and although some places accept Euros, many hotels, restaurants, and taxis will only take cash, especially in the mountain towns.  Although Albania is in Europe, it is not yet in the European Union, so the Euro is not widely accepted.

In particular, when we were in Berat and Gjirokastër, hardly anywhere took credit cards.  The beach towns were more modern and cards were widely accepted.

We were advised that it is best to transfer money once in Albania.  ATMs, however, were expensive.  Fees were often up to £14 per withdrawal, so it’s worth taking out a larger amount at once.

Also, when paying by card, choose to withdraw in the local currency (ALL) to avoid extra conversion fees.

Unfortunately, our son made the mistake of withdrawing £10 for a postage stamp and paid £5 in fees.  This was the most expensive postcard in Albania.

Tirana is the perfect starting point for any 2-week Albania itinerary.  We arrived early and headed straight to Hotel Mondial, where we dropped our bags and set off to explore.  Tirana’s centre is compact and easy to navigate by foot.

We wandered through the city, stopping for lunch before visiting the main Tirana attractions: Skanderbeg Square, the Pyramid of Tirana, and the Et’hem Bej Mosque.  All are free to enter.

The best things to do in Tirana are:

• Visit Skanderbeg Square
• Climb the Pyramid of Tirana
• Have a look inside Et’hem Bej Mosque
• Ride the Dajti Express Cable Car
• Explore Bunk’Art 1 or 2

We saved Bunk’Art 2 for our final day, but if you have time, you can also take the Dajti Express Cable Car up Mount Dajti for panoramic views over the city.

We chose Hotel Mondial, a stylish four-star hotel with a rooftop pool, sun terrace, and an excellent restaurant.  It’s about a 20-minute walk from the centre.

We stayed here again on our return to Tirana, this time in the suite, spacious, with beautiful décor, and excellent value for families.  I genuinely wish I could have stayed longer.

Drive from Tirana to Berat:  1hr 45 minutes

Berat was the next stop on our 2-week Albania itinerary, and it quickly became one of our favourite places to visit in Albania.  Known as the “City of a Thousand Windows,” Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with white Ottoman houses lining the hillsides on both sides of the Osum River.

On the first day we explored the city, crossing the bridge so we could see both Mangalem and Goric neighbourhoods.  The next morning, we took a trip to Osumi Canyon, stopping at Bogovë Waterfall for a freezing swim!

Berat is charming, vibrant, and incredibly photogenic.  It’s the kind of place where you can happily get lost and there are loads of cosy places to stop for a drink along the way.

The best things to do in Berat are:

• Explore the historic neighbourhoods of Mangalem and Gorica (on opposite sides of the river)
• Climb up to Berat Castle.
• Take a day trip to Osumi Canyon (hiking, floating and jumping)
• Swim at Bogovë Waterfall

Top Tip:  Although we had the car, we booked a guided tour to Osumi Canyon, as the roads here are rough and our rental car was not insured for this.

We stayed in the Hotel Onufri, a traditional hotel, in an excellent location for exploring Berat.

Drive from Berat to Gjirokastër:  2 hrs 30 minutes

Gjirokastër is another UNESCO treasure, known as the “City of Stone” for its slate-roofed houses and dramatic mountain backdrop.

The heart of the city centres around the Old Bazaar, lined with cobbled streets,  souvenir shops and cafés.  It’s a vibrant area, with a good atmosphere.

After mooching around the Old Bazaar, we visited Gjirokastër Castle, a huge fortress overlooking the town and explored the Cold War Tunnel, an underground network built during Albania’s communist era.

On our second day in Gjirokastër, we booked a white-water rafting trip near Permët.  Even though the water was calmer as it was summer, it is a fun and memorable experience for all of us (even if I was the only person to fall out of the boat!).  The rafting trip is suitable for beginners and younger children.

The best things to do in Gjirokastër are:

• Gjirokastër Castle
• Cold War Tunnel
• Old Bazaar
• White-water rafting near Permët

To be honest, our accommodation in Gjirokastër didn’t impress us at first and we were ready to leave and book somewhere else.  This was entirely because the Guri Guesthouse was up a very steep cobbled hill.

However, once parked, we remembered why we’d booked it.  The views were magnificent;  the hosts were incredibly kind and breakfast overlooking the mountains was truly memorable.  You can also walk from Guri Guesthouse to the centre of town in 10 minutes.

If we returned, we’d stay at the Sharm Hotel or Rose Garden Hotel, where parking is easier.

Drive from Gjirokastër to Ksamil:  1 hr 15 minutes

Ksamil is the poster child of the Albania Riviera.  Dubbed the “Maldives of Europe”, it’s one of the most southerly beach resorts, known for its sandy beaches,  turquoise waters, and lively atmosphere.  It’s one of the most popular places to visit in Albania, especially for beach lovers.

August is peak season, and the beaches were packed.  Rows of sun loungers and parasols covered every inch of sand, and the afternoons were filled with loud music from a boat.   It’s a fantastic place if you’re looking for a party vibe but was also popular with families.

To avoid paying for loungers each day, we booked the Hotel New Crystal which has its own private beach, which was ideal.  We found the mornings calmer and more enjoyable.

In the evenings, you can stroll along the promenade which comes alive with restaurants and cocktail bars offering deals.  Ksamil is not the most characterful town but is vibrant and fun.

If you want a quieter day, you could visit Butrint National Park, one of Albania’s most important archaeological sites and only ten minutes away.  It dates back to the 7^th century BC, with ruins from Rome, Greece, and the Byzantines.

The best things to do in Ksamil are:

• Relax on the beaches
• Visit Butrint National Park
• Boat trip to Ksamil Islands
• Visit the Blue Eye ( a natural spring with amazing clear water)

Travel tip:  The Blue Eye gets extremely busy after 11am, so go early to avoid the crowds.  Also, you don’t need to pay to go on the train from the car park, as it’s just a short walk.

We stayed at the Hotel New Crystal, a modern and spacious hotel about ten minutes’ walk from Krystal Beach Bar and beach, where we ate breakfast and had free use of the loungers and parasols.  The owner is lovely, and the location worked perfectly for us.

Drive from Ksamil to Radhimë :  2 hrs 30 minutes

From Ksamil, we drove up the coastline to Radhimë.  It’s about 15 minutes outside Vlorë and ideal if you want some time relaxing.

Our hotel had an infinity pool overlooking the sea, and we spent most of our time relaxing, swimming, and enjoying the sunshine.  The beach here is stony, so water shoes are essential, but the water is clear and calm.

Although there isn’t much of a town to explore, there are several beach bars and restaurants are within walking distance.  If you want a day trip, Orikum Archaeological Site is about 20 minutes away.  Alternatively, you can head back to Vlorë, about 20 minutes’ drive, to explore the town or take a boat trip.

The best things to do in Radhimë are:

• Relax at the beach
• Take a boat trip to the Secret Blue Cave and Grama Bay
• Visit Orikum or Appollonia (archaeological sites)
• Take a boat trip to Sazan Island, inside the Karaburan-Sazan Marine Park
• Explore the Old Town of Vlorë

We stayed at Dukes Hotel, a stylish 4-star hotel with an infinity pool, private beach and excellent breakfasts.  It is the perfect place to unwind.

Drive from Radhimë to Tirana:  2 hrs 30 minutes

Returning to Tirana was the perfect end to this 2-week Albania itinerary, especially as the suite at the Hotel Mondial was just amazing.

We left the coast early to beat the traffic and return the car.  After lunch, we spent a few hours revisiting the city before flying home early the next morning.

We went to Bunk’Art 2 Museum, which is a fascinating museum about the communist era of Albania, but very crowded and hot.  I enjoyed it, but the rest of the family escaped early.

We also visited Tirana Castle, now a modern area filled with shops and restaurants and stopped by the Cloud,  a contemporary art installation.

The currency in Albania is the Lek (ALL).  In the mountain towns such as Berat and Gjirokastër, only cash is accepted in the hotels and restaurants.  In the coastal resorts, credit cards are accepted in most places.

As with most European countries, you will be expected to pay tourist tax before departure from your accommodation.

Although you could use public transport, this would take away a lot of your flexibility.  However, if you didn’t want to hire a car, there are plenty of organised day trips to the major destinations.

Overall, our Albania itinerary worked brilliant for us.  Even so, next time we’d spend less time at the beach and would include Shkodër to see more of northern Albania.

It would be easy to condense our 2-week Albania itinerary into 1 week by spending lest time a the coast. You could also extend it by adding more hikes and visiting the Cursed Mountains in the North.

Here are some of the websites we use when planning our trips:

• Discover accommodation to suit all budgets at Booking.com or Hotels.com
• Get some of the most affordable prices on flights with Expedia
• Compare the price of rental cars with Discover Cars.
• Look at some of the most popular tours and trips in Albania.

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