A visit to Burgh Island, Devon

An ancient smugglers’ inn, a deserted fisherman’s hut, and the iconic Burgh Island Hotel, a glamorous Art Deco retreat once frequented by author Agatha Christie.    What do these intriguing places have in common?  Well, you’ll find them all on Burgh Island, a mysterious tidal island just off the coast of Bigbury-on-Sea in South Devon.

Bigbury-on-Sea is a charming seaside village known for one of the best beaches in Devon, with golden sands and family-friendly swimming spots.  But one of its biggest draws is that it provides access to the legendary Burgh Island, one of the most unique Devon attractions.

Covering just 26 acres, Burgh Island may be small, but it’s rich in character, history, and breathtaking scenery.  We recently revisited during our stay in nearby Dartmoor National Park.

Read on for our complete guide to visiting Burgh Island and Bigbury-on-Sea, a must-see destination in Devon for history lovers, walkers, and coastal explorers alike.

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Burgh Island sits off the coast of Bigbury-on-Sea, a small seaside village in South Devon, England.  It’s one of the most popular beaches in Devon, with a large sandy beach which connects to Burgh Island.  However, Burgh Island is a tidal island, so access is cut off by the sea twice a day at low tide.

When we arrived at Bigbury on Sea, the tide was out, so we were able to walk across the sandy causeway to Burgh Island without getting our feet wet.  It is only 250 metres across the sand, so doesn’t take long to walk.

However, don’t despair if the tide is in, as you can grab a ride on Burgh Island’s wonderful sea tractor!

Burgh Island’s sea tractor is a unique means of transport, which carries passengers to and from the island at high tide.

The sea tractor has enormous wheels which remain underwater, whilst passengers stay dry in the carriage above. Power from a tractor engine is transmitted to the wheels by hydraulic motors. Each trip costs £2 per person each way.

It is the only sea tractor I have ever seen, and offers a fun, unconventional ride.  However, it’s not a modern invention, as a sea tractor has been in operation at Burgh Island since 1930.  The current model was built in 1969 and is still going strong today.

One of the first sights as you arrive on Burgh Island is the Pilchard Inn, a charming coastal pub that dates back to 1336.  With over 700 years of history, this inn has welcomed fishermen, smugglers, and weary travellers.

Today, it offers a unique place to enjoy a drink while soaking up spectacular views across Bigbury-on-Sea beach. You can also eat a traditional British meal in front of a roaring fire inside.

Perched on top of the island is the world-famous Burgh Island Hotel, a dazzling Art Deco masterpiece built in 1929.  This exclusive hotel has hosted many legendary guests, such as Agatha Christie, Winston Churchill, and President Eisenhower.  During World War II, the hotel even served as a military hospital.

In the 1930s this remote hotel became a popular bolt hole for the rich and famous wishing to escape the bustle of London life.  Today the Burgh Island Hotel remains a luxurious getaway, known for its elegance and unique location.

Guests are collected via 4×4 vehicles, and there’s even a helipad for VIP arrivals. While some areas of Burgh Island are reserved for hotel guests, the majority of the island is free to access for the public.

Perhaps the island’s most famous visitor was Agatha Christie, who was so inspired by Burgh Island that she set two of her famous novels here: And Then There Were None and Evil Under the Sun.  The TV adaptations of the book were both later filmed on Bigbury Beach.

Christie often stayed in the Beach House on the island, where she wrote some of her best-known mysteries.  Today, fans of the crime author can book a stay in her former writing retreat.

Passing the hotel, we followed a path which took us up to the top of the island.  It’s fairly steep and not particularly accessible.

On the summit of Burgh Island is a derelict building used as a huer’s hut.  In the 18^th Century the huer would watch over Bigbury Bay for shoals of pilchard.  When they saw the movement of fish in Bigbury, they would call to fishermen below to launch their boats.  Later the community would assist in bringing the pilchard in. The term comes from the old French huer meaning to shout, and later led to the phrase “hue and cry”.

Nowadays you can go inside the building, which has no windows or roof, but still makes a good viewpoint.  There is also a useful information board inside.  In the Second World War, they used this post as an observation lookout for enemy attack and also built two pill boxes beside the causeway.

In medieval times, Burgh Island was a monastery and St Michael’s Chapel stood on this spot.  It was dedicated to the patron saint of seafarers, St Michael.  At at one point the island was even called St Michael de la Burgh.  It later changed to Borough or Bur Island, before changing to Burgh Island.

There are a number of different walking routes across the island, including the South West Coastal Path, which crosses the west end of the island.  The walk across Burgh Island is only about 1 mile in total.

Although the ascent and descent are steep, the top is flat and not too challenging at all.  You can bring dogs onto Burgh Island but must keep them on a lead. However, they cannot go onto the beach during the summer.

After visiting the Huer’s Hut, we took some time to enjoy the rugged landscape.  There is a viewpoint at one end, where we had stunning views of the South Hams coastline.

However, don’t get too close to the edge, as there are sheer drops and very hazardous rocks below.  Another reason to stick to the paths is to protect the nature on the island.

Burgh Island is home to a great variety of wildlife and is a haven for nesting sea birds.  You’ll also be able to spot many wildflowers, including orchids on the side of the island.

We followed the path round the coastline, stopped at the Pilchard Inn and then headed onto the beach.  From above we spotted several paddlers in kayaks, which looked like a fun alternative for exploring the island.

The beach at Bigbury-on-Sea is one of the best beaches in South Devon.  It’s a magnificent stretch of golden sand, which is ideal for sandcastles and digging.  Plus, the enormity of the beach allows plenty of space for ball games, such as rounders or cricket.

Another advantage of Bigbury Beach, is that you’ll have access to the sea from both sides at low tide.  It is popular for swimming and at one end lifeguards supervise the beach.

However, you should keep an eye on the tides, as the sea can come in quite rapidly.

Bigbury-on-Sea is in the South Hams district in South Devon, in the south of England.  The nearest large town is Plymouth, which is about 20 miles away.

To get to Bigbury-on-Sea, take the A379/B3392 and follow signs.  Be aware that many Devon roads are very narrow.  At times they are only wide enough for single traffic, so you may need to reverse!

There is a pay and display car park at Bigbury-on-Sea, with an overflow car park for busy days.  On a sunny day it is a very popular beach, so it does fill quickly.

Parking fees are currently £8 for a day.  The machine only takes cash, so make sure you take some change.

There is an additional private car park up the road leading into Bigbury-on-Sea.  At £5 for the day, it is a cheaper option, but it is a steep walk to get back to it.

To one side of the car park is a small gift shop, which also sells drinks and ice creams.  There is also Venus Café, which serves food and snacks from 10am to 6pm every day.

As we descended onto the beach there was a temporary barista stand, which also sold tubs of ice cream.

Obviously, the most stylish place to eat is at the Burgh Island Hotel, but you need to book in advance.

If you can’t afford to say at Burgh House Hotel, you could try one of the apartments at Bigbury-on-Sea.  Overlooking the beach, the self-catering apartments have a garden and terrace.  Guests can also use the indoor pool.

Click here for prices and availability for the apartments at Bigbury-on-Sea.

Have you been to Burgh Island in Devon?  We’d love to hear your comments below.

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