A visit to Burgh Island, Devon

An ancient smugglers’ inn, a deserted fisherman’s hut, and the iconic Burgh Island Hotel, a glamorous Art Deco retreat once frequented by author Agatha Christie.    What do these intriguing places have in common?  Well, you’ll find them all on Burgh Island, a mysterious tidal island just off the coast of Bigbury-on-Sea in South Devon.

Bigbury-on-Sea is a charming seaside village known for one of the best beaches in Devon, with golden sands and family-friendly swimming spots.  But one of its biggest draws is that it provides access to the legendary Burgh Island, one of the most unique Devon attractions.

Covering just 26 acres, Burgh Island may be small, but it’s rich in character, history, and breathtaking scenery.  We recently revisited during our stay in nearby Dartmoor National Park.

Read on for our complete guide to visiting Burgh Island and Bigbury-on-Sea, a must-see destination in Devon for history lovers, walkers, and coastal explorers alike.

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When we arrived at Bigbury-on-Sea, the tide was out, allowing us to walk across the sandy causeway to Burgh Island without even getting our feet wet.  The island is just 250 metres from the mainland, and the walk is quick and scenic.

Burgh Island is a tidal island, meaning it’s completely cut off by the sea at high tide twice a day.  But don’t worry if the tide is in; that’s when you get to experience one of the island’s most unique attractions: the Burgh Island sea tractor.

The Burgh Island sea tractor is a unique mode of transport.  This vintage vehicle carries passengers to and from the island during high tide, with its giant wheels submerged below the shallow waters.  Power from a tractor engine is transmitted to the wheels by hydraulic motors.

Passengers stay dry in the carriage above whilst enjoying sea views and a rather conventional ride.  A sea tractor has been in operation at Burgh Island since 1930.  The current sea tractor, built in 1969, costs just £2 per person each way and is still going strong today.

One of the first sights as you arrive on Burgh Island is the Pilchard Inn, a charming coastal pub that dates back to 1336.  With over 700 years of history, this inn has welcomed fishermen, smugglers, and weary travellers.

Today, it offers a unique place to enjoy a drink while soaking up spectacular views across Bigbury-on-Sea beach. We enjoyed a pint in the sunshine, but n winter, you can also eat a traditional British meal in front of a roaring fire inside.

Perched on top of the island is the world-famous Burgh Island Hotel, a dazzling Art Deco masterpiece built in 1929.  This exclusive hotel has hosted many legendary guests, such as Agatha Christie, Winston Churchill, and President Eisenhower.  During World War II, the hotel even served as a military hospital.

In the 1930s this remote hotel became a popular bolt hole for the rich and famous wishing to escape the bustle of London life.  Today the Burgh Island Hotel remains a luxurious getaway, known for its elegance and unique location.

Guests are collected via 4×4 vehicles, and there’s even a helipad for VIP arrivals. While some areas of Burgh Island are reserved for hotel guests, the majority of the island is free to access for the public.

Perhaps the island’s most famous visitor was Agatha Christie, who was so inspired by Burgh Island that she set two of her famous novels here: And Then There Were None and Evil Under the Sun.  The TV adaptations of the book were both later filmed on Bigbury Beach.

Christie often stayed in the Beach House on the island, where she wrote some of her best-known mysteries.  Today, fans of the crime author can book a stay in her former writing retreat.

If you follow the path past the Burgh Island Hotel, a short, steep climb will take you to one of the island’s most historic and scenic points, the Huer’s Hut.

This small, roofless stone structure may now be derelict, but it once played a vital role in Burgh Island’s history.  In the 18th century, a huer would use this lookout to scan Bigbury Bay for shoals of pilchard.

Upon spotting the fish, he would call out to the fishermen below to launch their boats.  The community would then rally round to help bring in the catch. Interestingly, the phrase “hue and cry” originates from this practice, with huer derived from the old French word meaning “to shout.”

Today, visitors can explore inside the Huer’s Hut, which still serves as a fantastic viewpoint.  Though it has no roof or windows, it offers panoramic views of the South Devon coastline, and there’s an information board inside that shares some of the building’s past.

During World War II, the hut was repurposed as a coastal observation post to monitor for enemy attacks.  Two pillboxes were also constructed near the Burgh Island causeway as part of the island’s wartime defences.

Long before the 18th century, Burgh Island was the site of a medieval monastery.  This very spot once held St. Michael’s Chapel, dedicated to St. Michael, the patron saint of seafarers.  The island’s early name, St. Michael de la Burgh, gradually evolved, first to Borough Island, then Bur Island, and eventually to the Burgh Island we know today.

Although Burgh Island is only about 1 mile across, it offers several scenic walking trails.  In fact, the South West Coast Path, England’s longest national trail, crosses the west side of the island.

It’s a steep walk up, but it levels at the top, from where you’ll get a fantastic view of the stunning South Hams coastline.  However, visitors must be careful of cliff edges and loose rocks.

Burgh Island is home to a great variety of wildlife and is a haven for nesting sea birds.  You’ll also be able to spot many wildflowers, including orchids on the side of the island.  It’s important to stick to marked trails to help preserve the island’s fragile ecosystem.

Whilst we were there, we saw several kayakers navigating the waters around the island, which looked like a fun alternative for exploring the island.

Bigbury-on-Sea beach is one of the best beaches in South Devon, and it’s easy to see why.  With vast golden sands and clear waters, it’s a paradise for swimmers, families, and watersports enthusiasts alike.  The beach is ideal for sandcastles, and is big enough for ball games like rounders or cricket.

At low tide, there are two main swimming areas, one of which is supervised by lifeguards.  it’s popular for all sorts of water activities, including surfing, bodyboarding, and windsurfing.

Bigbury-on-Sea is in the South Hams district of South Devon, about 20 miles from Plymouth.

To get there, take the A379, then the B3392, following signs to Bigbury.  Be prepared for narrow, country roads, where you may need to reverse if it’s single track.

There is a pay-and-display car park at Bigbury-on-Sea, with an overflow car park for busy days.  On a sunny day it is a very popular beach, so it does fill quickly.

Parking fees are currently £8 for a day.  The machine only takes cash, so make sure you take some change.

There is an additional private car park up the road leading into Bigbury-on-Sea.  At £5 for the day, it is a cheaper option, but it is a steep walk to get back to it.

To one side of the car park is a small gift shop, which also sells drinks and ice creams.  There is also Venus Café, which serves food and snacks from 10am to 6pm every day.

Obviously, the most stylish place to eat is at the Burgh Island Hotel, but you need to book in advance.

If you can’t afford to say at Burgh House Hotel, you could try one of the apartments at Bigbury-on-Sea.  Overlooking the beach, the self-catering apartments have a garden and terrace.  Guests can also use the indoor pool.

Click here for prices and availability for the apartments at Bigbury-on-Sea.

Have you been to Burgh Island in Devon?  We’d love to hear your comments below.

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