A day out in Shaldon, Devon

Shaldon Beach, Devon, UK

A secret smugglers’ tunnel leading straight to the beach, an ancient passenger ferry crossing the estuary, coastal walks, fishing boats, and excellent places to eat.  There are plenty of memorable things to do in Shaldon, which is exactly why we couldn’t resist a visit.

On our way home from Dartmoor, we made a spontaneous detour to Shaldon, one of the prettiest and most unspoilt villages in South Devon.  Set at the mouth of the River Teign, opposite Teignmouth, Shaldon is a small enough to explore in a day, yet packed with character.  In this guide, we share how we spent a day in Shaldon, mixing coastal walks, family-friendly attractions, and excellent food with a touch of nostalgia thrown in, as my grandfather spent his childhood here.

If you’re planning a visit, this guide covers the best attractions in Shaldon and makes an ideal one-day Shaldon itinerary.

Top things to do in Shaldon, Devon

  • Walk through the historic Smugglers’ Tunnels to Ness Cove Beach
  • Relax or swim at Ness Cove, one of South Devon’s hidden beaches
  • Visit Shaldon Zoo (perfect for young children)
  • Ride the historic Shaldon-Teignmouth passenger ferry
  • Enjoy traditional fishing from the beach or estuary
  • Explore Shaldon village and browse the independent shops
  • Wander Homeyards Botanical Gardens
  • Enjoy lunch or dinner with sea views

Smugglers' Tunnels

We started our day with one of the most popular things to do in Shaldon – the famous Smugglers’ Tunnels.

Well-signposted from the car park, these damp, winding tunnels cut through the cliffs and lead directly to Ness Cove Beach.  It’s thrilling to imagine smugglers and wreckers sneaking through here centuries ago, even if it is far less secret today

Ness Cove beach

The tunnels open out onto Ness Cove Beach, a beautifully secluded beach, tucked below rugged, red sandstone cliffs.  In the past, this headland was a welcome sight for passing sailors.  Today, it’s an award-winning family beach with safe swimming areas.

Don’t expect golden sands like you’ll find elsewhere in Devon.  Instead, Ness Cove is made up of distinctive red shingle, not ideal for sandcastles, but perfectly in keeping with the dramatic cliffs.

After a quick dip in the sea and a wander along the shore, we headed back up to explore more of the best attractions in Shaldon.

Good to know:  There are steep steps down to the beach, so Ness Cove isn’t very accessible for wheelchairs or buggies.

Shaldon Wildlife Trust (Shaldon Zoo)

A short walk from the tunnels brings you to Shaldon Wildlife Trust, one of the best family-friendly attractions in the village.

Set within a wooded hillside garden, this small zoo focuses on conservation, particularly of rare and endangered animals, especially primates.   As the zoo covers just one acre, it’s ideal for younger children, who can get close to animals, such as lemurs, tamarins, civets, and amphibians.

A family ticket is £38 and allows unlimited re-entry on the day.

Exploring Shaldon village

From the zoo, we followed the downhill path into the heart of Shaldon village. The path forms part of the famous South West Coast Path, one of England’s most popular long-distance walking routes. The route is 630 miles in total and Shaldon is a popular stopover for walkers.

The village beach sits at the heart of Shaldon and has a livelier feel than Ness Cove, with fishing boats lining the shore.  Fishing is still an important part of daily life in Shaldon, and it’s common to see locals casting lines from the beach, a lovely reminder of the village’s working heritage.

One advantage of the village beach is the easy access to pubs and cafés.  We stopped at the Ferry Boat Inn, perfectly positioned overlooking the beach and next to the landing point for the historic passenger ferry.

The Shaldon-Teignmouth Ferry Boat Inn has been operating since at least the 10th Century, making it the longest-running passenger ferry in England.  It runs every 15 minutes and is far more fun than crossing by the bridge.

Away from the waterfront, we found elegant Georgian house, a pristine bowling green, and independent shops, selling local art, seaside gifts, and ice creams. Shaldon remains refreshingly unspoilt, retaining its traditional charm.

Places to eat in Shaldon - The Ness House

If you head back up the hillside, you’ll also find Homeyards Botanical Gardens.  This hillside garden is packed with colourful borders and rare plants, but dinner was calling and we were running out of time.

Instead, we retraced our steps along Marine Parade and stopped at the Ness House pub, one of the best places to eat in Shaldon.  Perched halfway up the hill, this friendly pubs boasts stunning views across the estuary towards Teignmouth. Naturally, it had to be fish and chips for all four of us.

The food was excellent, the atmosphere relaxed, and the children’s menu came with generous portions, plus a tub of ice cream, which is always a winner in our book.

After dinner, it was time to say farewell to this beautiful South Devon village.

Getting to Shaldon, South Devon

Shaldon is located in South Devon, around eight miles North of Torquay.  It’s easily reached from the A380 or A38, which connect to the M5.

The nearest train stations are Teignmouth and Newton Abbot, making Shaldon an easy stop whilst exploring the villages of South Devon.

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