Troyes, the ancient capital of the Champagne region in northeastern France, is a picturesque medieval city known for its winding cobblestone streets, stunning Gothic churches, and beautifully preserved half-timbered houses. With its rich history, vibrant cultural scene, and charming old town, Troyes is a must-visit destination for history lovers and architecture enthusiasts alike. However, it is also a fun place to visit for families and provides the perfect stopover if you are travelling to the South of France or the mountains.
As a fan of medieval cities, I couldn’t resist the opportunity for a day trip to Troyes on our way back from skiing in La Plagne. This compact city is easy to explore on foot and you can see many of Troyes’ top attractions in one day. It’s really easy to find your way around, with bronze markers guiding visitors through a historic walking tour of its most significant landmarks.
In this guide, I’ll share our top things to do in Troyes, from exploring its medieval streets, seeing Troyes Cathedral,to enjoying the city’s modern attractions. Whether you’re visiting for a few hours or a full day, it’s a great city to visit and offers a glimpse into France’s medieval past.
Read on to find out what we got up to on our day trip, plus discover the best things to see in Troyes for first-time visitors!
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Canal du Trévois
We started our day trip to Troyes with a leisurely stroll along the Canal du Trévois, a picturesque spot that perfectly captures the charm of this medieval city. Originally built in the 17th century as an alternative waterway to the River Seine, this famous river winds through Troyes on its journey to Paris. However, the Canal du Trévois was never fully filled with water and eventually fell into disuse.
Today, the Canal du Trévois provides a romantic pedestrian walkway, often featured on picture-postcards of Troyes. Along the route, you’ll cross several charming bridges adorned with love locks left by couples visiting the city.
La Cœur de Troyes
If you’re spending a day in Troyes, be sure to explore the area by the canal. Art-lovers will love it here, as you’ll find several contemporary sculptures along the quays. One of the highlights is Attendez-moi, a bronze sculpture of a dog playfully chasing geese across the water was a clear favourite for our kids.
However, the most iconic sculpture in the city is undoubtedly Cœur de Troyes, a stunning stainless-steel heart and a must-see attraction. Weighing an impressive two tonnes, this dazzling piece is especially mesmerizing at night. As dusk falls, Le Cœur de Troyes glows a deep red and even pulses like a beating heart as people approach.
La Cathédrale de Saint-Pierre et Saint-Paul
From le Cœur de Troyes we made our way to the cathedral area, home to one of the city’s most breathtaking landmarks, La Cathédrale de Saint-Pierre et Saint-Paul. This impressive Gothic cathedral showcases stunning architecture and magnificent stained-glass windows. Built between the 13th-17th centuries, Troyes Cathedral has stood for hundreds of years old and is currently undergoing restoration work to preserve its grandeur.
Troyes is well known for its rich religious heritage, with nine more historic churches scattered throughout the city. Originally, there were 25 churches, but over time, the rest have disappeared.
Medieval Buildings
One of the best ways to spend your time in Troyes is simply wander through the streets of the old town. With its half-timbered medieval buildings, winding alleyways, and vibrant atmosphere, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time.
Historically, Troyes was a prosperous trade hub, attracting international merchants to its famous annual fairs. However, in 1524, a devastating fire swept through the city, destroying over 1,000 houses. Despite this tragedy, the town’s wealthy residents quickly rebuilt, blending medieval charm with Renaissance architecture, which still defines Troyes today.
Nowadays, Troyes is a lovely town to explore, with its maze of narrow alleys and cobbled streets offering a true glimpse into the town’s medieval past. The colourful facades add character and serve as a reminder of how Troyes would have looked centuries ago.
Many of the old houses are tall, with overhanging fronts, a clever trick, as taxes were once based on the building’s footprint. Some buildings look quite wonky, yet they have remarkably stood the test of time and add to the town’s charm.
One of my favourite historic buildings in Troyes is La Tourelle de l’Orfèvre (The Goldsmith’s Tower). As its name suggests, this distinctive tower was originally built by a goldsmith. Today, however, this medieval landmark serves as a popular crêperie.
La Ruelle des Chats
One street you mustn’t miss on a day trip to Troyes is the quirky Ruelle des Chats, or Cat Alley
This narrow, dark passageway is one of the most famous streets in Troyes, featuring overhanging medieval houses that lean so close together that their rooftops almost touch. The alley gets its name from the fact that, in centuries past, cats could easily leap from one side to the other.
Adding to its feline charm, Cat Alley even has its own specialty shop dedicated to cat lovers, offering a variety of gifts and goodies for feline enthusiasts visiting Troyes.
Eating in Troyes
As you’d expect Troyes is home to several pretty plazas, with outdoor cafés and restaurants providing a good choice for outdoor dining.
One of the most popular squares in Troyes is Place Maréchal Foch, a lively spot where you’ll also find the town hall, making it a great place to soak in the city’s atmosphere.
Of course, no day trip to Troyes would be complete without stopping for some delicious food. However, visiting in February meant it wasn’t quite the season for alfresco dining, so we opted for a meal indoors at Midi O’Halles. They offered a tempting selection of fresh focaccia and panini, an ideal lunch before we continued exploring.
Champagne in Troyes
Although Troyes is the official capital of the Champagne region, it is often overlooked in favour of its more famous neighbours Reims and Éparnay, which are home to some of the world’s most renowned Champagne houses.
However, no visit to Troyes would be complete without indulging in the region’s local produce. While the city may not boast any grand Champagne estates, there are still plenty of charming spots where you can enjoy local bubbles!
In fact, from above, the city’s layout resembles the shape of a Champagne cork, earning it the nickname “Bouchon de Champagne”.
Halles de Troyes
After lunch, we set off to explore the Marché couvert de Troyes, one of the largest covered markets in France, built in 1874. Inside, you’ll find an impressive selection of meat, cheese, and some remarkably large vegetables. We’ve never seen such huge Brussels sprouts!
In front of the market, you’ll find another striking steel sculpture, “La Feuille” (the Leaf), which mirrors the style of the iconic Troyes Heart sculpture. While the heart pulses with energy, the leaf lies gracefully flat, creating a complementary design. Both sculptures were created by the same local artist, to add a unique artistic touch to Troyes’ public spaces.
Museums in Troyes
If you have more than a day to spend in Troyes, you’ll find plenty more to explore other than the charming streets and historic landmarks.
There are several unique museums in Troyes, including France’s first museum dedicated to stained glass, a museum of tools, and an old apothecary museum. Troyes also boasts a modern art museum and numerous galleries, making it a great destination for art and history enthusiasts.
However, with dinner plans waiting for us in Reims, we’ll have to return another day to fully explore these cultural treasures.
How to get to Troyes
Troyes is located to the southeast of Paris, easily accessible via the A5. If you are travelling by car, it’s about 110 miles (178 km) from Paris and takes approximately 2 hours. Alternatively, you can take regular trains from Paris, departing from Gare de l’Est.
Troyes also makes an excellent stopover on the route from Calais to the Alps or South of France. By car, it is about 250 miles (400 km) and takes just under 4 hours. Conveniently located just off the A26 (junction 23), Troyes is the perfect place to break up your journey, especially if you’re traveling from the Channel Tunnel.
Parking in Troyes
Parking in Troyes was easy and convenient, with several small car parks located near the historic centre. We opted for a car park on Boulevard du 14 juillet, just a short walk from the heart of the city and were pleasantly surprised at how cheap it was.
Parking is free in Troyes between 7:00pm-9:00am, as well as 12:00pm-2:00pm and on Sundays and public holidays.
Accommodation in Troyes
If you want to stay overnight in Troyes, you’ll find plenty of apartments in Troyes Old Town on Booking.com.
If you prefer somewhere with character, the Hôtel la Maison de Rhodes & Spa has an amazing location by the cathedral.
Have you been to Troyes? We’d love to hear your comments below.
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